Given my lifelong obsession with skin care (both personally and professionally), I consider myself generally familiar with a wide array of active ingredients, both common and obscure. So when I find out there’s a previously unbeknownst to me ingredient on the rise, I jump at the chance to learn more. I’ve been a lactic acid devotee for years, so I was shocked when my facialist recommended switching to mandelic acid as my chemical exfoliant instead.
Because I tend to have acne-prone skin, I have to admit that I was reluctant to make changes to my rigid skin care regimen, but I am so glad I took the leap. I’m still reaping all the benefits of regular alpha hydroxy acid usage that I was getting from lactic acid, like brightness and exfoliation, but now with the added benefit of reduced breakouts. I am especially thrilled by this, as this is the exact time of year when my skin is at its most sensitive and prone to congestion.
To get to the bottom of exactly why mandelic acid is so effective among AHAs, I spoke to dermatological nurse and celebrity aesthetician Natalie Aguilar. She was quick to say that mandelic acid is one of her favorite acids for a range of reasons, one of them being that it’s a gentle, yet effective, AHA. That means that most people with sensitive, discolored or acneic skin can use and benefit from it, and it is safe for all skin tones. (Those with more persistent inflammatory issues like rosacea and dermatitis should consult their dermatologists before using.)
Aguilar explained that lactic acid, which is derived from milk, and mandelic acid, which is derived from bitter almonds, have many similarities. “They are two of the most gentle alpha hydroxy acids because they have a larger molecule structure than other acids, such as glycolic acid. This allows the molecule to stay on the outer surface of the skin, which creates a gentle subsurface exfoliation.”
Like lactic acid, mandelic acid is great for use in tandem with retinoids, as it help to slough off the dead skin cells that retinol quickly turns over. Just be sure to be diligent about sunscreen usage, as both AHAs and retinol make your skin more sensitive to sun damage.
Mandelic acid has the added benefit of having anti-bacterial properties. That means that in addition to bringing all the possible benefits of lactic acid, such as reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles, hydrating, brightening, smoothing and evening out skin tone, it also helps to prevent and treat acne…
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